Food & Drink

Wellington Bars for a Still Night or a Southerly

Rooftops for sunny evenings, basements and cocktail lounges for wild weather, plus Wellington's wine bars, old pubs, beer bars, live music rooms and Courtenay Place late.

When Wellington has a still, sunny evening, the whole city seems to head for a rooftop. When a southerly rolls in off the strait, the same people disappear into basements, laneways and wood-panelled lounges. Wellington bars are built for both, and knowing which kind of night you have is most of the skill of drinking here.

This covers the rooftops for still nights, the cocktail rooms for wild ones, the wine bars, pubs, beer bars and live music rooms, organised so you can match the bar to the weather. Most of it sits within a fifteen-minute walk of Cuba Street and Courtenay Place.

How Wellington drinks

The city's bars cluster in Te Aro. Courtenay Place is the loud strip, busiest late on Friday and Saturday nights. Cuba Street and the laneways around it, Leeds Street, Garrett Street, Swan Lane and Edward Street, hold the smaller, more interesting rooms. The waterfront and Queens Wharf do harbour-view drinks with food, and Newtown has a bar scene of its own.

Wellington is a small city with a big drinking culture, and the best bars are often up a staircase, down a basement or behind an unmarked door. Walk slowly and look up.

The legal drinking age in New Zealand is 18, and bars will ask for photo ID if you look anywhere near it. Carry a passport, a New Zealand driver's licence or an approved age card. Many bars run happy hours in the early evening, and after-work drinks on a Friday start well before 5pm.

For a still night: rooftops and terraces

When the wind drops and the sun is out, get up high. These are the bars locals head for on those rare perfect evenings.

Ascot is a rooftop bar on level one at 55 Ghuznee Street, just off Cuba, with wine on tap and a crowd that fills the terrace the moment the sun comes out. It is relaxed, unfussy and one of the easiest places in the city to lose an afternoon.

On a cold or windy day it is quieter, which is when you can get a seat. On a warm Friday you will need to arrive early.

The Arborist at 166 Willis Street has a ground-floor restaurant and bar and a rooftop above it, part of the Trinity Hotel. ABV Rooftop Bar on Courtenay Place has a long list of craft beer, whisky and rum and a view down over the strip. Dirty Little Secret on Taranaki Street has near-panoramic views over Courtenay Place from its rooftop, and is at its best on a warm evening as the lights come on.

On the waterfront, Foxglove fills a heritage building on Queens Wharf with a harbour-view bar and kitchen, and BIN44 next door has 22 taps and outdoor tables by the water.

Hippo upstairs at the QT hotel on Cable Street has one of the best harbour views in town.

For a southerly night: cocktail rooms and basements

When the weather turns, Wellington goes underground. These are the rooms for a cold, wet, wind-battered night.

Hawthorn Lounge at 82 Tory Street is a classic cocktail lounge upstairs in an old building, with low lighting, a long bar and a menu that suits both the serious cocktail drinker and the curious. It has been one of the city's reference cocktail bars for years.

It is small and gets busy. Go early in the evening, or on a weeknight, to get a seat at the bar and watch the craft up close.

Dee's Place is down the stairs at 126 Cuba Street, beneath a mounted stag's head, in a basement lined with bottles. It has the finest whisky selection in town and cocktails to match, and it feels miles from the street above.

It is the ideal bar for the worst weather Wellington can throw at you.

Bedlam and Squalor is up a staircase at 18 Garrett Street, a cocktail bar with a good range of ingredients and a relaxed room. Hanging Ditch on Leeds Street has bottles hanging from the ceiling on a pulley system and a happy hour deal that makes the first round kinder. The Library upstairs on Courtenay Place does cocktails and desserts among the bookshelves. Havana Bar on Wigan Street is set in a pair of old workers' cottages with a courtyard, a warren of small rooms that feels like someone's house party. Scotty and Mal's at 176 Cuba Street has a lounge upstairs and dancing downstairs on weekends.

Cuckoo Emporium sits in the Steamship Building at the northern end of Queens Wharf, a cocktail bar that also serves coffee and has a solid selection of drinks through the day. It is a smart harbour-side option when the weather is too rough for the wharf terraces.

It works well for a pre-dinner drink before one of the Queens Wharf restaurants.

Wine bars

Wellington has been quietly building one of the best small wine bar scenes in the country, helped by Martinborough and the Wairarapa just over the hill.

Noble Rot on Swan Lane, just off Cuba Street, is the city's serious wine bar, with a long list, knowledgeable staff and a menu of small plates and proper dinners. It has been a fixture of the lane for years.

Ask the staff for something local from the Wairarapa. They will have an opinion, and usually a good one.

Puffin on Ghuznee Street, on the ground floor of The Intrepid hotel, is a wine bar and shop with a relaxed, pretty room. Rosella on Majoribanks Street is a restaurant and wine bar drawing on Mediterranean and North African food. Bert's Bar on Woodward Street is an intimate tavern with a curated list of Beaujolais.

Out in Kelburn village, Graze on Upland Road has a thoughtful list and is a good reason to linger at the top of the cable car. Fruit Cru on Holland Street makes organic cider and fruit pét-nat in the city, a more unusual stop for anyone curious about natural drinks.

Ombra on Cuba Street does wine and small plates in a Venetian bacaro style.

Pubs

Wellington's pubs range from one of the country's oldest to modern sports bars, with craft beer on tap at almost all of them.

The Malthouse on Willis Street was pivotal in the rise of craft beer in New Zealand, pouring small-brewery beers when few others would. It still has a long, well-kept tap list and staff who know their hops.

It is one of the places a Wellington craft beer education begins, and a good first stop on a beer crawl.

The Thistle Inn on Mulgrave Street in Thorndon dates from 1840 and is one of the oldest pubs in the country, with low ceilings and a history that goes back to the original shoreline. The Rogue and Vagabond on Garrett Street is a craft beer bar with a big outdoor area and live music. The Green Man on Victoria Street is an Irish-style pub with a cocktail bar. Lynott's on Blair Street is a classic Irish pub with chips and pints. The Residence on Courtenay Place has screens for sport and pool tables. Eva Pub on Dixon Street pours local beers and hosts events. The Ram at 103 Cuba Street is a gastropub with a Sunday roast, negroni on tap and a sunny spot for an after-work drink. Leroy's at the top of the Plimmer Steps does burgers and beer just off Lambton Quay.

Beer bars

For craft beer in particular, a few bars have made it their whole reason to exist.

Little Beer Quarter on Edward Street has twelve rotating taps, two handpulls and a nitro tap in a warm room off Cuba Street. Golding's Free Dive on Leeds Street is a kitsch dive bar with a rotating tap list and pizza from across the laneway. The breweries' own taprooms are a separate world, and Wellington's taprooms take a full afternoon to work through properly.

Live music

Wellington has a strong live music culture, and several bars double as venues.

San Fran at 171 Cuba Street is one of the city's key live music venues, with a big room, a balcony and a line-up that runs from local newcomers to touring acts. Midweek nights often feature free gigs from emerging bands, and ticketed shows fill the weekends.

It is the first place to check if you want to see a band in Wellington.

Valhalla on Vivian Street hosts music from metal to avant-garde, and is exactly as loud as that suggests. Rumours Rum Bar on Taranaki Street is rum, records and brews, with DJs playing vinyl. In Newtown, Moon on Riddiford Street is a live music venue with hand-made pizzas and craft beer.

Courtenay Place late

Courtenay Place is where Wellington's big nights end up. The bars here are larger, louder and open later, and the street is at its busiest after 11pm on a Saturday.

Hummingbird at 22 Courtenay Place is a restaurant and lounge that shifts from dinner to drinks as the night goes on. The Grand at 69 Courtenay Place has stone-grill dining and craft beer, with the ABV rooftop above.

It is a busy, sometimes rowdy strip late at night. Go with a group, keep an eye on your drinks, and use a registered taxi or ride-share to get home.

Newtown's bars

Newtown has its own small bar scene along Riddiford Street, a short bus ride from Te Aro, with a younger, more local crowd.

Next Door, entered from Wilson Street at 163 Riddiford Street, is a small bar pouring New Zealand natural and organic wines, with a warm, neighbourhood feel. It is the kind of bar where the staff remember what you drank last time.

Combine it with dinner in Newtown and a gig at Moon a few doors along.

Distillery bars

Gin and whisky are made in the city too. Southward Distilling Co in Rongotai, near the airport, crafts small-batch gin and whisky and is worth a visit for anyone interested in how it is made. In Te Aro, Design Distillery is up a flight of stairs at 170 Cuba Street.

Queer Wellington

Wellington has a long-established and visible queer scene centred on Cuba Street, marked by the Rainbow Crossing. Ivy Bar at 63 Cuba Street is an inclusive, eclectic bar with drag shows, comedy and themed nights. Scotty and Mal's is welcoming and popular with the LGBTQ+ community, and the Pride festival fills the street's bars each year.

After work on a Friday

Friday drinks start early in Wellington, especially in the business district and on the waterfront. By 4.30pm the Queens Wharf bars are filling with office workers, and on a sunny day the outdoor tables go first.

Near Lambton Quay, The Old Bailey is the classic after-work pub, with a long bar and pub food. The Green Man on Victoria Street and Leroy's at the top of the Plimmer Steps take the overflow. Around Parliament and the stadium, The Thistle Inn and the Duke of Wellington on Waterloo Quay both fill quickly on Fridays and on game nights.

In Te Aro, The Ram on Cuba Street and the Rogue and Vagabond on Garrett Street are the after-work defaults, both with outdoor space for the rare warm evening.

Bars with good food

Several of Wellington's best bars are as good for a meal as a drink, which saves the walk between dinner and the first round.

Noble Rot serves proper dinners alongside its wine list. Rosella does Mediterranean and North African plates. The Ram has a gastropub menu and a Sunday roast. Foxglove on Queens Wharf and Hippo at the QT hotel both serve full menus with harbour views. BIN44 does house-smoked meat boards, and The Grand on Courtenay Place does stone-grill dining.

For a cheaper feed with your beer, Golding's Free Dive lets you order pizza in from across the laneway, and Moon in Newtown makes its own pizzas.

Drinking on a budget

Wellington is not a cheap city to drink in, but there are ways to make it gentler. Happy hours, usually in the early evening on weekdays, knock a few dollars off house wine, beer and some cocktails at many bars. Hanging Ditch's happy hour deal is one of the better known.

Pubs are generally cheaper than cocktail bars, and taprooms are the best value for craft beer, since you are buying from the source. Midweek, several live music venues, San Fran among them, run free gigs, which makes a cheap night out much easier to arrange.

Getting home safely

Most of the bars in this guide are in Te Aro, within walking distance of the central hotels. Taxis rank on Courtenay Place and around Cuba Street late at night, and ride-share apps work across the city. Book a registered taxi or ride-share rather than accepting an offer on the street.

Buses thin out late at night, so check the last service if you are heading out to the suburbs. Wellington's hills are steep and the footpaths can be slippery in the rain, which is worth remembering at 1am.

Wellington is generally a safe city at night, and the busy streets are well lit. Like anywhere, stay with friends, watch your drink and trust your instincts if a place feels wrong.

Quieter drinks away from the centre

Not every night needs Courtenay Place. In Kelburn, at the top of the cable car, Graze is a small wine bar in the village that suits a quiet glass after a walk in the Botanic Garden. In Thorndon, The Thistle Inn is at its best early in the evening before the crowds arrive.

Out east, the Lyall Bay and Miramar breweries have taprooms with a local crowd and a much gentler pace, and on the waterfront Cuckoo Emporium stays calmer than the Te Aro bars.

A night out, planned around the weather

On a still, warm evening: start on the Ascot rooftop at sunset, walk to Noble Rot for a glass and a plate, then up to Dirty Little Secret or ABV for the view as the city lights up. Finish downstairs at Scotty and Mal's if you still have energy at midnight.

On a southerly night: start at The Malthouse for a beer, walk through Te Aro to Hawthorn Lounge for a cocktail, then down into Dee's Place for whisky. If you are still going, Havana Bar's small rooms are the warmest place in town.

Either way, eat first. Dinner in Te Aro is a short walk from every bar here, and the Cuba Street mall and its laneways alone have enough of both to fill a night.

For a place to sleep within stumbling distance, central hotels in Te Aro put the bars on your doorstep.

To see the city by daylight too, the waterfront starts a few blocks from Courtenay Place, and the rest of the city's sights fill the hours before the bars open.

Frequently asked questions

Published August 9, 2026

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